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Cuba

Sierra Maestra

Cuba was once one of the world's great coffee exporters. Its largest natural market has been legally unable to buy it for sixty years.

Heavy-bodied and low-acid, with dark chocolate, tobacco and molasses. Traditional, old-fashioned and made for a dark roast.

Grown at 800–1'200 m above sea level.

What makes it different

Coffee arrived in the Sierra Maestra with French planters fleeing the Haitian revolution, and the terraced ruins of their estates are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Cuban coffee today is a fraction of its historic output — grown mostly in the eastern mountains, largely by hand, with almost no access to inputs.

Compared with Jamaica Blue Mountains

Caribbean neighbours with opposite fortunes. Jamaica protected its name, certified it, and sold the crop forward to Japan at a premium. Cuba lost access to its natural market and its output collapsed. The coffee is not the variable here; the politics is.

How this place shapes the taste

  1. Altitude: 800–1,200 m in the Sierra Maestra

    Moderate. Enough for a decent cup, not enough for brightness — which suits the heavy, chocolatey style Cuban coffee is traditionally roasted for.

  2. Processing: Washed, largely by hand with minimal mechanisation

    Careful where labour allows, inconsistent where it does not. Scarcity of equipment and inputs is the binding constraint on quality.

  3. Variety: Typica and Bourbon lines of long standing

    Old genetics preserved by isolation rather than by choice — sweet, full-bodied, low-yielding.

  4. Shade: Shade-grown on historic terraces in mountain forest

    Slows ripening and, on this terrain, prevents the erosion that would otherwise strip the slopes.

A market it cannot sell to

Cuba exported coffee at scale for well over a century. The United States — the nearest large market and the obvious buyer — has been closed to it under embargo since the early 1960s, and production fell steeply over subsequent decades as inputs, machinery and labour became scarce. What is grown now goes mostly to Japan and Europe in small quantities, or is drunk at home. It is the clearest case here of an origin's fortunes being decided by legislation rather than by anything agricultural.

Brewing it

Built for a dark roast and a moka pot or espresso. Low acidity means it will not go sour, and it takes sugar the way it is traditionally drunk.

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